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Understanding wrinkles –
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Dynamic wrinkles
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Static wrinkles
YOUTHFULLNESS
YOUTHFULLNESSThe surface of the skin is not smooth and regular. Microscopically we observe a fine mesh of multi-directional lines that generate a kind of grid network that participates in the firmness and suppleness of the skin.
With numerous anchor points, the fibroblasts, key cells of the dermis, interact with the collagen fibres to create a three-dimensional network. For their mobility and contracting properties the fibroblasts ensure the organisation and density of this support network keeping the collagen fibres tight.
This cellular dynamic allows a regular organisation of the dermal mesh, ensuring skin firmness and the absence of wrinkles.
There is an abundant supply of collagen and elastin that helps form the construction block that structures the skin, allowing it to be uniform and firm.
OLD AGE
With age some lines disappear and other become deeper and go in the same direction.
The grid disappears and the fine lines that show on the surface become indelible wrinkles, long and wide, more than 0.05 mm deep.
There is an impoverishment of the components of the Extracellular Matrix and a lowering of the processes of adhesion, migration, and differentiation of the cells. The cellular dynamic and the interactions between the cells and the support fibres are reduced and a disorganisation of the collagen mesh takes place. The skin loses its mechanical properties and lets the signs of time appear.
An annual reduction of 1% of the collagen levels and a growing disposition of the disorganised skin tissue cause a loss of skin vitality and the appearance of wrinkles.
There are different types of wrinkles that respond to specific morphological transformations and are located in different areas of the face.
Dynamic Wrinkles:
Determined by muscle mobility. Under the skin there are small muscles that contract and relax so we can express ourselves. The repetition of a gesture fixates an expression as a wrinkle. Up to a certain age folds appear and disappear depending on facial expressions, but the skin recovers its smooth appearance when the face stops showing emotions.
From the age of 20 begins the process of skin ageing, which produces a loss of suppleness. The skin takes more and more to recover its smooth appearance after each muscle contraction.
The age in which expression wrinkles appear, their amount and depth depend on each individual, their genetic profile, their lifestyle, but also how much they bend their eyebrows, they frown, they smile or squint. They appear in very precise places and perpendicular to the major axis of the muscle that produces it.
“Crow’s feet” appear on the external area of the eyes and are the result of contracting the underlying muscle, the orbicularis oculi. It is an early wrinkle that can appear very soon due to the fine skin of this area.
Transversal wrinkles on the forehead appear when the elevator muscles are tensed. The forehead of a youthful face becomes smooth again when the muscles relax. With time the skin loses suppleness, the elevator muscles are shortened and the folds become permanent.
The wrinkles between the eyebrows give the face a serious, worried appearance. The birth of this wrinkle is associated with the repeated contraction of the corrugator muscle. It can appear very soon, between 20 and 30, on faces of people that knit their eyebrows a lot.
Lip wrinkles or “bar code”: here the skin is intimately adhered to the underlying muscle plane and even more with the passing of the years due to the loss of fat that separates the skin of the orbicular muscle of the lips, so the continuous act of moving it and skin ageing itself make the folds that have started to form on it have no way back.
Static Wrinkles:
They are due to the flaccidity of the skin and to gravity.
Throughout time the process of internal ageing, predetermined by our genes, together with oxidative stress of external origin, for example, by exposure to sunlight, begins to affect the appearance of the skin. A fatigue of the structures that make up the skin takes place and there is a reduction of the substances responsible for keeping it smooth, which contributes to the loss of skin density.
Static wrinkles are not influenced by facial expressions and are always visible. They appear at first as an ondulated skin texture and gradually become first lines and then more pronounced wrinkles as we age.
Naso-labial folds start at the wings of the nose and reach the corners of the mouth. They mark the smile and make it slightly “sad”. On the face the layer of fat is thicker as it gets away from the ears, being more abundant on the cheeks. As a consequence of flaccidity and gravity the complex skin/fat slides until finding resistance, the orbicular muscle of the mouth, which is the skeleton of the lips. The fat and the skin are placed on the muscle forming the naso-labial folds.
“Puppet lines” are between the mouth and the chin. They appear under the naso-labial folds as their continuation, and also the double chin appears. The face loses its contour and widens.
The wrinkles of the neck and décolletage: their skin is very fine and also is exposed to external factors. The wrinkles of the décolletage are more or less vertical. They start at the beginning of the breasts and stretch to the clavicles. The wrinkles of the neck are horizontal and form as the skin becomes flaccid.
THE EYE CONTOUR
The fine skin of the periocular area is more prone to the appearance of wrinkles, and also in this area there are two more problems: dark circles and puffiness. It is between 300 and 800 microns thick, that is, less than 0.5 mm, five times finer than the rest of the face. And this skin becomes even thinner as we age. This is also worsened by external and internal factors, as well as many constant movements (blinking, gestures, visual focusing, and involuntary gestures). We have 22 periorbital muscles producing daily continuous contractions. Through this almost transparent skin we can see the blood vessels, capillaries, and the accumulation of liquid, and with ageing the extremely thin skin of the epidermis of the dark circle occasionally sticks more to the bone, marking it much more.
Wrinkles – Dynamic wrinkles that are formed, among which are crow’s feet, with the passing of time end up setting and producing static wrinkles.
Dark Circles – They may have different colours depending on their cause.
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Vascular dark circle (bluish): the lower eyelid is a very vascularised area. Day by day the capillaries lose their tone and capacity to eliminate toxins. The accumulation of blood pigments like bilirubin, biliverdin, and iron progressively colours the thin epidermis of the eye contour. The alteration is increased by fatigue, stress, and alcohol or tobacco consumption. More visible on light skin.
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Pigmentation dark circle (brown): this area is very sensitive to damage caused by free radicals and can easily show inflammation. For example, solar damage induces free radicals and consequently inflammation. Oxidative stress produced by UV radiation and hormone changes, among other causes, can produce more pigment deposits (excess melanin), which makes the area look darker, giving an appearance of sunken eyes. This type of dark circle is more common in people with darker skin.
Puffiness – Some are formed by liquids and other by fat.
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Liquid puffiness is due to retention, because we do not sleep well, because our blood pressure goes up, a high consumption of salt, etc. In that eye area there are many lymphatic vessels and when microcirculation slows down we retain liquids.
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Fat puffiness is normally more related to age and is due in part to genetic predisposition, but most of all to the accumulation and sagging of fat produced in this area as we age. The ligaments that support that fat in the eye area become weak with the passing of the years.